From Quepos, we headed to Panama, which is a land flowing with inexpensive and delicious baked goods, amazing coffee, beautiful beautiful Molas, and easy buses. Panama just might win the prize of best central american country so far... We spent two nights in Boquete, which is a town in a mountainous region about two hours from the border with CR. Panama uses the American dollar as their currency, but the prices for just about everything are about 40 years behind the US. For example, we went to a panaderia for breakfast, and got two cheesey breads, two coffees, and a pineapple muffin for $2.00. Amazing. Boquete is well known for its coffee and flowers. The local fairground was still set up from its "cafe y flores" fair the week before. We decided to see some gardens that are supposed to be kind of Alice-in-Wonderland themed, called "El Explorador." We got there and the place seemed to be in disrepair, which made it kind of creepy. Imagine a garden pot that has a 70's-esque smily face...now imagine it knocked on its side, with the dirt and plants spread everywhere... It was cool, too, though. Spread throughout the gardens there were all of these signs hand-painted in Spanish that had little sayings and prayers and advice. After we walked for a bit, we ran into the woman who ran the place, who apologized, and said they weren't open for business, since they place had been decimated by a wind storm a week before. She pointed out what we had somehow not really noticed- downed power lines, trees about to fall down...and she kept saying "Muy peligro!" (very dangerous.) Our whole walk back to the entrance, she kept pointing everywhere and saying "peligro, peligro, peligro..." So, we left, but it was really cool to see.
We took a day-trip from Boquete up to the town of Cerro Punta, where we hiked up in a cloud forest. That area of the country is known for its year-round strawberry crop, so we went to a roadside stand recommended by a taxi driver to get strawberries and cream and strawberry milkshakes and strawberry bread. mmmmmmmm.
Because I had my heart set on it, we took an overnight bus into Panama city to see the Panama canal. We were dirty and sweaty from walking around the cloud forest that day, so Gwen and I were looking for a place to take a shower before getting on the bus. This random guy gave us directions to a hotel that he said was cheap, where we could change our clothes and take a shower… On our walk over there, I asked a dad and his son if we were on the right track to El Escirpion, the hotel, and they very quickly told us it was crazy dangerous, with lots of drug addicts living there, ad we’d probably be robbed (potentially by the guy who gave us the directions). So, after chatting for a bit, he told us that we could shower at his mom’s house, which was a few blocks away. He sent his son Chris in the taxi with us to get to their house, and we got clean and changed, and then Chris rode back into town with us to make sure we got here safely. We had a package of M&Ms in our bag, which was the only thing that might suffice for a thank-you gift to the family- I said it was something sweet for them, because they were the sweetest. The dad apparently has a daughter in the states, and wanted to help us out after we were led so far astray. So, so, so nice. Reminds me that the world is a good place. crazy dangerous, with lots of drug addicts living there, and we´d probably be robbed (potentially by the guy who gave us the directions). So, after chatting, he told us we could shower at his mom´s house, which was a few blocks away. He sent his son Chris in the taxi with us to get to her house, and we got clean and changed, and then Chris rode back into town with us to make sure we got here safely. We had a package of M&Ms in our bag, which was the only thing that might suffice for a thank-you gift to the family- I said it was something sweet for them, because they were the sweetest. The dad apparently has a daughter in the states, and wanted to help us out after we were led so far astray. So, so, so nice. Reminds me that the world is a good place.
The overnight bus was absolutely freezing cold, but the canal was awesome to see. When we got there, a ship carrying about 500 tractor-trailer containers was going through the locks. Gwen was very generous to humor my extreme enthusiasm for the canal...
Before our overnight bus back out of Panama city, we stopped in one of the oldest parts of town to walk around. We found a group of women underneath this net of bouganvillas who were selling traditional crafts, so we spent a lot of time and money there. Our bus that night took us to an early-morning ferry to the Caribbean island of Bocas del Toro.
We stayed two nights in Bocas, eating caribbean food and hanging out on the huge and beautiful porch in our hotel. The Thursday that we were there, we heard that Gwen's aunt Sally was in a car accident, and decided to come home to be with her family. The first flight we could take out was on Sunday, so we headed up to cross the border back into Costa Rica to spend the night in the caribbean town of Cahuita. Crossing the border was crazy- the two border towns were separated by a river, and connected by a bridge that was missing a few important boards.
In Cahuita, we stayed in a beautiful cabina by the ocean. The ocean, however, was full of tree debris and dirt from the series of storms that had also decimated those crazy gardens in Panama. Swimming in the ocean was basically out of the question, so we walked for a bit to find this gorgeous swimming pool.
We swam, saw a poison dart frog, humming birds, crazy lizards...and we were surrounded by all of this beautiful jungle.
It was a perfect place to....
...get engaged!
We're engaged! I asked Gwen to marry me! We were talking about being together, and in love, and it was all of a sudden the exact right time to decide to get married. We're getting married!!! Hooray!
We got to WV on Sunday night, February 15th, and headed up to NY to visit with Gwen's family the next day. It felt so good to be there, supporting them and spending time all together. We've been traveling between Sally's house in NY and seeing my fam in WV, and will be back up near MA on Wednesday the 25th.
We've loved keeping you updated on our travels, and will post all of our pictures here, or on facebook. We had an amazing trip- and will absolutely continue our adventures in the next few months.
Tuesday, February 24, 2009
Beaches and Monkeys in Costa Rica
From Montezuma (the cool hippie artsy town), we travelled to Mal Pais, which is a very popular surfing spot. Our hostel had a free pancake breakfast, which we learned from some nice guy was even better when you buy a mango and a banana from the fruit stand to make your own amazing crepes. We didn't do any surfing, but had the best fish dinner of our whole trip, and did some swimming and sunset-watching there. The beach had all of these volcanic rock outcroppings, with small-but-deep tidepools full of fish and crabs. The rocks were also sharp, and well hidden in the ocean, so both of us got a little beaten up...
From Montezuma, we took the bus to the ferry we'd taken a few days back, to get to Quepos. Originally, we had decided to rent a house there, but our plans have changed and we're moving through this area more quickly.
Our first night there, we took a bus to a place called "El Avion" to watch the legendary sunset. Interesting side note- the place is called El Avion because, during the Iran-Contra affair, Ollie North financed this huge jet that was to be secretly given to the Nicaraguan contras. The airplane never got there, and sat in the Costa Rican airport for awhile, until these people bought it for $3000 and shipped it to Quepos, where it sits on top of a mountain, so tourists like us can have sunset cocktails next to it.
The next morning we bought a picnic lunch and headed to Parque Manuel Antonio, the most beautiful and gorgeous beach I've ever seen. We found a place to sit, and realized that a huge group of howler monkeys were eating in the tree next to us. I put my bag down so to get a closer look at them, and one of the monkeys ran right next to me! (We have photo documentation of this moment.) Gwen says that she thought I was trying to have a "Gorillas in the Mist" moment. I kind of was. But then, that same monkey jumped out of the tree and onto our bag of picnic lunch, just as Gwen yelled "grab the food!"
I didn't. Instead, I jumped back, kind of flapped my arms at the monkey, and made a mean-sounding hissing sound. (Who knew that's what I do when confronted with thieving wildlife?) First it rummaged through our bag, grabbed the chips, tried to open them, and put them down. Then, after I'd gotten a bit too close, it made some MEAN eye contact and bared its I'm-about-to-bite-you teeth. I totally backed off, and it stole our bag of fried chicken. The whole monkey family went off to eat our lunch without us...
The next day we went to La Playita, which is supposed to be the gayest beach in all of Costa Rica. We saw lots of speedo-clad men and drank a beer, and decided to try to go out to a gay bar that night. We asked on the bus for the person behind us to let us know when to get off at the bar, but then about 10 minutes later, he bursts out laughing and says (in rapid spanish to the woman next to him that only Gwen could understand) that he was supposed to tell us where to get off, and had completely forgotten, and this was his stop... She laughed, too. It was the last bus of the night, so we just hung out in town, which was also lots of fun!
From Montezuma, we took the bus to the ferry we'd taken a few days back, to get to Quepos. Originally, we had decided to rent a house there, but our plans have changed and we're moving through this area more quickly.
Our first night there, we took a bus to a place called "El Avion" to watch the legendary sunset. Interesting side note- the place is called El Avion because, during the Iran-Contra affair, Ollie North financed this huge jet that was to be secretly given to the Nicaraguan contras. The airplane never got there, and sat in the Costa Rican airport for awhile, until these people bought it for $3000 and shipped it to Quepos, where it sits on top of a mountain, so tourists like us can have sunset cocktails next to it.
The next morning we bought a picnic lunch and headed to Parque Manuel Antonio, the most beautiful and gorgeous beach I've ever seen. We found a place to sit, and realized that a huge group of howler monkeys were eating in the tree next to us. I put my bag down so to get a closer look at them, and one of the monkeys ran right next to me! (We have photo documentation of this moment.) Gwen says that she thought I was trying to have a "Gorillas in the Mist" moment. I kind of was. But then, that same monkey jumped out of the tree and onto our bag of picnic lunch, just as Gwen yelled "grab the food!"
I didn't. Instead, I jumped back, kind of flapped my arms at the monkey, and made a mean-sounding hissing sound. (Who knew that's what I do when confronted with thieving wildlife?) First it rummaged through our bag, grabbed the chips, tried to open them, and put them down. Then, after I'd gotten a bit too close, it made some MEAN eye contact and bared its I'm-about-to-bite-you teeth. I totally backed off, and it stole our bag of fried chicken. The whole monkey family went off to eat our lunch without us...
The next day we went to La Playita, which is supposed to be the gayest beach in all of Costa Rica. We saw lots of speedo-clad men and drank a beer, and decided to try to go out to a gay bar that night. We asked on the bus for the person behind us to let us know when to get off at the bar, but then about 10 minutes later, he bursts out laughing and says (in rapid spanish to the woman next to him that only Gwen could understand) that he was supposed to tell us where to get off, and had completely forgotten, and this was his stop... She laughed, too. It was the last bus of the night, so we just hung out in town, which was also lots of fun!
10 Observations
At this point, we'd like to tell ya a few random things we've noticed. (Written on February 1st-ish.)
1. There are dogs everywhere, but no puppies, despite the fact that dogs are having unprotected sex on every street corner. Some of these dogs are also enthusiastically gay.
2. Throwing just about anything out of the bus in Nicaragua is a normal thing to do. Window= Trashcan.
3. "Taking the bus" includes trusting our backpacks to the top of the "chicken bus" school bus, and getting very very hot and sweaty and chatty. Just when you think one more body can't possibly fit onto the bus (because there are three people to every two -person seat, and dozens in the aisles) someone comes on the bus with handfuls of pillows or bags of fried chicken to sell, which people subsequently buy, consume, spill on their seatmates, and throw the leftovers out the window. The experience is so surreal when compared to life as we know it that all you can really do is laugh about it.
4. The only people who give accurate information about bus schedules are bus drivers. Everyone else will and say you have to take a taxi. It's funny to have to fight to have this "authentic" experience of taking the busses (which were pricelessly entertaining- see above.)
5. We eat lots of street food, because it is just so very awesome and cheap. We paid about 15 cents for fresh delicious donuts on the street in Granada.
8. Fried Chicken is the national food of Costa Rica. It's so amazing that the monkeys will steal it from you.
9. Coolest animals we've seen: a quetzal, baby howler monkeys, coatis, a sloth, a family of capyberas (i think- they're those huge rodents.), green poison dart frog, vveeerrryyy long and big millipede, and huge iguanas.
10. We rarely see only one person on a bicycle at a time. Usually, someone is sitting on the crossbar, and sometimes someone else is hanging off the back. A related point- babies don't go in baby seats. We've seen babies sitting on bicycle crossbars, being held by moms on a motorcycle while dad drives, and sitting on the lap of a man who was driving, while drinking a beer. (In that case, we saw the baby hit the man in the face- he didn't even swerve.) And, 10.5, the babies and kids here are so well behaved (except the one in that front seat...). Really, none of the kids are whining on the long hot bus rides, or crying or hitting. Pretty amazing to see.
1. There are dogs everywhere, but no puppies, despite the fact that dogs are having unprotected sex on every street corner. Some of these dogs are also enthusiastically gay.
2. Throwing just about anything out of the bus in Nicaragua is a normal thing to do. Window= Trashcan.
3. "Taking the bus" includes trusting our backpacks to the top of the "chicken bus" school bus, and getting very very hot and sweaty and chatty. Just when you think one more body can't possibly fit onto the bus (because there are three people to every two -person seat, and dozens in the aisles) someone comes on the bus with handfuls of pillows or bags of fried chicken to sell, which people subsequently buy, consume, spill on their seatmates, and throw the leftovers out the window. The experience is so surreal when compared to life as we know it that all you can really do is laugh about it.
4. The only people who give accurate information about bus schedules are bus drivers. Everyone else will and say you have to take a taxi. It's funny to have to fight to have this "authentic" experience of taking the busses (which were pricelessly entertaining- see above.)
5. We eat lots of street food, because it is just so very awesome and cheap. We paid about 15 cents for fresh delicious donuts on the street in Granada.
8. Fried Chicken is the national food of Costa Rica. It's so amazing that the monkeys will steal it from you.
9. Coolest animals we've seen: a quetzal, baby howler monkeys, coatis, a sloth, a family of capyberas (i think- they're those huge rodents.), green poison dart frog, vveeerrryyy long and big millipede, and huge iguanas.
10. We rarely see only one person on a bicycle at a time. Usually, someone is sitting on the crossbar, and sometimes someone else is hanging off the back. A related point- babies don't go in baby seats. We've seen babies sitting on bicycle crossbars, being held by moms on a motorcycle while dad drives, and sitting on the lap of a man who was driving, while drinking a beer. (In that case, we saw the baby hit the man in the face- he didn't even swerve.) And, 10.5, the babies and kids here are so well behaved (except the one in that front seat...). Really, none of the kids are whining on the long hot bus rides, or crying or hitting. Pretty amazing to see.
Saturday, January 31, 2009
Skype...
Right, so I know we haven't blogged in at least 2 minutes and I'm sure you've been waiting with baited breath for the next post.
Margaret now has a Skype account...the screen name is Margaretbyrne2...which means that we can call people back home! So, if you have an account through Skype and you want us to be able to get in touch with you for free, email your screen name to one of us. (If you don't want us to talk to you, just don't bother sending an email and we'll NEVER KNOW.)
Lots of love to all of you!
xoxo
gwen
ps-Margaret would like me to update you on my personal experience...well, ...well...that's a bit funny, I was about to write a lengthy narrative describing my innermost feelings, but, alas, she has just informed me that she is hungry and that means it's dinnertime. I'll have to catch up with ya later. Cheers!
Margaret now has a Skype account...the screen name is Margaretbyrne2...which means that we can call people back home! So, if you have an account through Skype and you want us to be able to get in touch with you for free, email your screen name to one of us. (If you don't want us to talk to you, just don't bother sending an email and we'll NEVER KNOW.)
Lots of love to all of you!
xoxo
gwen
ps-Margaret would like me to update you on my personal experience...well, ...well...that's a bit funny, I was about to write a lengthy narrative describing my innermost feelings, but, alas, she has just informed me that she is hungry and that means it's dinnertime. I'll have to catch up with ya later. Cheers!
Read Me. If you have too much free time.
Apologies for the delay in posting! We have about four towns and six days to update you on-- you might want to get a fresh cup of coffee or something. And also a snack.
When we moved to the new hotel in Granada, we met a group of people who were on a GAP trip. (We're not sure what GAP stands for.) One of the tour leaders had approached us at the bar one night, and chatted about very random things- completely unexpected, until she asked what it had been like for us as a couple to be traveling in CR, because her girlfriend is going to be visiting in a few weeks. She and her tour group turned out to be great, and we spent the evening chilling with them, then went to our favorite karaoke bar. (That would be the bar where the lesbo karaoke duo from long island pours free shots into your mouth.) That hotel is the current winner of the "best place ever" award.
Our last day in Granada, we hired a car to take us to Laguna de Apoyo, which is this huge beautiful lake that we had seen from a lookout point called "El Mirador" in Catarina the day before. The driver took us to a place that he liked, which was actually a resort that we got to use for free. Laguna de Apoyo is a crater lake, and is known as one of the best places in the whole country to go swimming. (Certainly better than Ometepe...) We swam in the (warm!) water, sunbathed on a boat dock, and hung out in the pool there. The water was clear blue, and a circle of beautiful mountains were all around us.
We woke up early to catch 12 hours worth of busses back across the border from Nicaragua to Costa Rica. Highlights included waiting in a trash-strewn gravel lot for 4 hours while a line of 150 people moved forward, achingly slowly, and the fact that the two girls in front of us stared at us silently like children of the corn. Once, one of them picked her mom's nose, and no one talked about it. SO WEIRD. (Right, so we were staring at them, too.) Fortunately, we had just picked up a book compiled by Wally Lamb that includes the stories of incarcerated women, detailing their abuse and trauma histories and lives in jail. This uplifting volume certainly did wonders for our spirits.
So, ten katrillion hours later, we make it to Brasilito, Costa Rica!!! We had a reservation at a place called Hotel Olitas, but didn't really know where to find it. We stopped at a little restaurant to ask directions. When the spanish-speaking man who helped us heard where we wanted to stay, he immediately dropped the spanish and the accent, and said of the Hotel Olitas owner "Excuse my french, but that guy is a crazy motherfucker."
We did not go to Hotel Olitas. We stayed across the street, in a place that had a pool, in a room that was almost big enough for both me and Gwen to stand up in at the same time. Almost. Fortunately, the room held a bunk bed, so we could put our backpacks on the top bunk, because there certainly wasn't any floor space. Also fortunately, the room had a TV, so we caught up on our "Denise Richards...It's Complicated" when it was too hot to sleep. In case you were wondering if we this show is good at all, it's not. At all.
In Brasilito, we found a nice open-air restaurant with wireless that served as an excellent office, and some of the best fried chicken, ever. We walked to Playa Conchal, which is a beach made entirely of crushed white shells, and bodysurfed in Brasilito, where the waves were better. I saw some people snorkeling on Playa Conchal, so I grabbed my goggles and went to swim out near a ridge of rocks that had recently been covered by the rising tide. I saw a few random yellow and blue striped fish, and some larger black ones, and then saw a whole school of the striped fish lined up just above the top of the rocky ridge. They were very daintily eating algae and things from the rocks- every so often a wave would come and swirl them away, but then they'd find their way back to that same spot. I had decided for some reason that paying to rent a snorkel was silly, so I'd been holding my breath and just using my goggles to see these fish. After feeling moderately hyperventilated and lightheaded, I'm splurging on the snorkel next time.
Luckily, on Playa Conchal, we also happened upon a very swanky resort with a breach in their security fence that served as a perfect doorway to plush towels, weight machines, treadmills, hot tubs, and unlimited free cocktails in the afternoon. Swanky swanky. However, it was also basically the largest collection of wealthy white people we've ever seen.
We had seen howler monkeys on our walk to Playa Conchal a few times, as well as some huge iguanas. (FYI: Howler monkeys have bright white balls. Unexpected, eh?) One day while we were inside the resort, we caught a glimpse of some monkeys just outside the fence. I'd been practicing my howler monkey howl (not so good yet) and tried to call to them, and caught the attention of two of those previously mentioned wealthy white people. Soon, about 9 people were all pointing and looking at the monkeys...but it was striking that not one single person wanted to actually leave the grounds to get a better view.
We left Brasilito on Wednesday morning to head to Samara, which is another coastal town. We stayed in this cute little hut about 5 feet away from the beach, which got less cute when we realized that about a million ants also lived there with us. The ocean was crazy warm, and the beach was home to lots of cute little crabs that would pop in and out of their holes. We also saw so many iguanas- the biggest of which was eating a banana peel in an old fire pit. The second night we were there, we stayed in the absolute nicest place we've been in so far. We had to call around from Brasilito to find a place that would allow Gwen to receive a call on Friday morning for a grad school interview, and this was the only place that would let us use their phone! The beds were made with crisp sheets, the towels were folded into flowers, and bright red (real!) flowers were strewn all over the room and bathroom. They also had free boogie boards and laundry, so we boogied and laundered to our heart's content.
Also, just a note, if you ever think that eating a WHOLE ENTIRE pineapple for lunch, as well as a chicken empanada, is a good idea, it is. A great one.
That night, we were discussing dinner plans at the hotel when two other kids who were staying there started chatting with us, and suggested that we all make dinner together. They had just gone on a charter fishing tour and had a blackfin tuna to eat...so of course we said yes. That dinner was epically delicious- the best part was the fresh spicy tuna sashimi. The conversation was pretty funny with these two frat boys from the University of Michigan, who were on a "first initial of your first name" basis with each other. Ben and Dylan, aka B and D, turned out to be excellent chefs, and provided us with the inside scoop on their frat's initiation policies.
And now, at this very moment, we're waiting for a bus that will take us to a bus, that will take us to a ferry, that will take us to another bus, that will deposit us in Montezuma, which is supposed to be an amazingly beautiful place, with an inspiringly creative community. All of that travel wouldn't look very necessary if you were to consult a map- we're just going about 70 kms down the Pacific coast- but the only passable roads take you in a huge circle.
Ok, well, now we're IN Montezuma and finally posting this novel of an entry. We ended up spending the night in the port town of Puntarenas last night, and taking a ferry early this morning. The lonely planet guide says that the town of Puntarenas is low on places you'd like to take your mother...and I'm pretty sure this might be one place that no one's mom should go, unless she really likes rooms that get rented by the hour. The first place we checked out had condoms available at the reception desk- we opted for the $12 room guarded by an elderly couple, both of whom told us to watch our backs. So we went out for pizza, and came right home (to read aloud. really. it was too sketchy to leave our room! so now we're halfway through "The Secret Life of Bees.")
Montezuma is full of very nice sweaty people who all do very complicated macrame projects by the side of the road, and sell their finished products at tables in front of their work stations. Right now, we're sitting at a hippie dippie organic coffee shop- the exact kind of place that's hard to avoid in noho- but it's the only place with wireless. It is, however, inspiringly creative. I just got back from a walk on the beach where I found this beautiful and smooth driftwood that I'm going to craft into wind chimes. Or maybe some macrame.
From Montezuma, we will try to head to Mal Pais and/or Santa Theresa, which are similar surfer towns, and then to Quepos, where we've rented a house for the month and already have one visitor scheduled! Anyone want to come hang out with us on the beach with Catherine??
Lots and lots of love to every single one of you. After you just read this and know all about what Gwen and I have been up to- or even know MORE than you'd like to- we would like to hear from YOU!
xoxoxoxoxo margaret and gwen
When we moved to the new hotel in Granada, we met a group of people who were on a GAP trip. (We're not sure what GAP stands for.) One of the tour leaders had approached us at the bar one night, and chatted about very random things- completely unexpected, until she asked what it had been like for us as a couple to be traveling in CR, because her girlfriend is going to be visiting in a few weeks. She and her tour group turned out to be great, and we spent the evening chilling with them, then went to our favorite karaoke bar. (That would be the bar where the lesbo karaoke duo from long island pours free shots into your mouth.) That hotel is the current winner of the "best place ever" award.
Our last day in Granada, we hired a car to take us to Laguna de Apoyo, which is this huge beautiful lake that we had seen from a lookout point called "El Mirador" in Catarina the day before. The driver took us to a place that he liked, which was actually a resort that we got to use for free. Laguna de Apoyo is a crater lake, and is known as one of the best places in the whole country to go swimming. (Certainly better than Ometepe...) We swam in the (warm!) water, sunbathed on a boat dock, and hung out in the pool there. The water was clear blue, and a circle of beautiful mountains were all around us.
We woke up early to catch 12 hours worth of busses back across the border from Nicaragua to Costa Rica. Highlights included waiting in a trash-strewn gravel lot for 4 hours while a line of 150 people moved forward, achingly slowly, and the fact that the two girls in front of us stared at us silently like children of the corn. Once, one of them picked her mom's nose, and no one talked about it. SO WEIRD. (Right, so we were staring at them, too.) Fortunately, we had just picked up a book compiled by Wally Lamb that includes the stories of incarcerated women, detailing their abuse and trauma histories and lives in jail. This uplifting volume certainly did wonders for our spirits.
So, ten katrillion hours later, we make it to Brasilito, Costa Rica!!! We had a reservation at a place called Hotel Olitas, but didn't really know where to find it. We stopped at a little restaurant to ask directions. When the spanish-speaking man who helped us heard where we wanted to stay, he immediately dropped the spanish and the accent, and said of the Hotel Olitas owner "Excuse my french, but that guy is a crazy motherfucker."
We did not go to Hotel Olitas. We stayed across the street, in a place that had a pool, in a room that was almost big enough for both me and Gwen to stand up in at the same time. Almost. Fortunately, the room held a bunk bed, so we could put our backpacks on the top bunk, because there certainly wasn't any floor space. Also fortunately, the room had a TV, so we caught up on our "Denise Richards...It's Complicated" when it was too hot to sleep. In case you were wondering if we this show is good at all, it's not. At all.
In Brasilito, we found a nice open-air restaurant with wireless that served as an excellent office, and some of the best fried chicken, ever. We walked to Playa Conchal, which is a beach made entirely of crushed white shells, and bodysurfed in Brasilito, where the waves were better. I saw some people snorkeling on Playa Conchal, so I grabbed my goggles and went to swim out near a ridge of rocks that had recently been covered by the rising tide. I saw a few random yellow and blue striped fish, and some larger black ones, and then saw a whole school of the striped fish lined up just above the top of the rocky ridge. They were very daintily eating algae and things from the rocks- every so often a wave would come and swirl them away, but then they'd find their way back to that same spot. I had decided for some reason that paying to rent a snorkel was silly, so I'd been holding my breath and just using my goggles to see these fish. After feeling moderately hyperventilated and lightheaded, I'm splurging on the snorkel next time.
Luckily, on Playa Conchal, we also happened upon a very swanky resort with a breach in their security fence that served as a perfect doorway to plush towels, weight machines, treadmills, hot tubs, and unlimited free cocktails in the afternoon. Swanky swanky. However, it was also basically the largest collection of wealthy white people we've ever seen.
We had seen howler monkeys on our walk to Playa Conchal a few times, as well as some huge iguanas. (FYI: Howler monkeys have bright white balls. Unexpected, eh?) One day while we were inside the resort, we caught a glimpse of some monkeys just outside the fence. I'd been practicing my howler monkey howl (not so good yet) and tried to call to them, and caught the attention of two of those previously mentioned wealthy white people. Soon, about 9 people were all pointing and looking at the monkeys...but it was striking that not one single person wanted to actually leave the grounds to get a better view.
We left Brasilito on Wednesday morning to head to Samara, which is another coastal town. We stayed in this cute little hut about 5 feet away from the beach, which got less cute when we realized that about a million ants also lived there with us. The ocean was crazy warm, and the beach was home to lots of cute little crabs that would pop in and out of their holes. We also saw so many iguanas- the biggest of which was eating a banana peel in an old fire pit. The second night we were there, we stayed in the absolute nicest place we've been in so far. We had to call around from Brasilito to find a place that would allow Gwen to receive a call on Friday morning for a grad school interview, and this was the only place that would let us use their phone! The beds were made with crisp sheets, the towels were folded into flowers, and bright red (real!) flowers were strewn all over the room and bathroom. They also had free boogie boards and laundry, so we boogied and laundered to our heart's content.
Also, just a note, if you ever think that eating a WHOLE ENTIRE pineapple for lunch, as well as a chicken empanada, is a good idea, it is. A great one.
That night, we were discussing dinner plans at the hotel when two other kids who were staying there started chatting with us, and suggested that we all make dinner together. They had just gone on a charter fishing tour and had a blackfin tuna to eat...so of course we said yes. That dinner was epically delicious- the best part was the fresh spicy tuna sashimi. The conversation was pretty funny with these two frat boys from the University of Michigan, who were on a "first initial of your first name" basis with each other. Ben and Dylan, aka B and D, turned out to be excellent chefs, and provided us with the inside scoop on their frat's initiation policies.
And now, at this very moment, we're waiting for a bus that will take us to a bus, that will take us to a ferry, that will take us to another bus, that will deposit us in Montezuma, which is supposed to be an amazingly beautiful place, with an inspiringly creative community. All of that travel wouldn't look very necessary if you were to consult a map- we're just going about 70 kms down the Pacific coast- but the only passable roads take you in a huge circle.
Ok, well, now we're IN Montezuma and finally posting this novel of an entry. We ended up spending the night in the port town of Puntarenas last night, and taking a ferry early this morning. The lonely planet guide says that the town of Puntarenas is low on places you'd like to take your mother...and I'm pretty sure this might be one place that no one's mom should go, unless she really likes rooms that get rented by the hour. The first place we checked out had condoms available at the reception desk- we opted for the $12 room guarded by an elderly couple, both of whom told us to watch our backs. So we went out for pizza, and came right home (to read aloud. really. it was too sketchy to leave our room! so now we're halfway through "The Secret Life of Bees.")
Montezuma is full of very nice sweaty people who all do very complicated macrame projects by the side of the road, and sell their finished products at tables in front of their work stations. Right now, we're sitting at a hippie dippie organic coffee shop- the exact kind of place that's hard to avoid in noho- but it's the only place with wireless. It is, however, inspiringly creative. I just got back from a walk on the beach where I found this beautiful and smooth driftwood that I'm going to craft into wind chimes. Or maybe some macrame.
From Montezuma, we will try to head to Mal Pais and/or Santa Theresa, which are similar surfer towns, and then to Quepos, where we've rented a house for the month and already have one visitor scheduled! Anyone want to come hang out with us on the beach with Catherine??
Lots and lots of love to every single one of you. After you just read this and know all about what Gwen and I have been up to- or even know MORE than you'd like to- we would like to hear from YOU!
xoxoxoxoxo margaret and gwen
Thursday, January 22, 2009
Pictures!
Just a quick update to let you know I've made a Picasa album to put some of our trip pictures in. Right now, it just has pictures from La Fortuna, Arenal volcano, and Monteverde cloud forest, but we'll keep adding to it.
The album is available here: http://picasaweb.google.com/margaretbyrne2
Today we took a bus trip to the town of Catarina, which was beautiful, cute, and great. One of our best days so far, I'd say. A little moto-taxi took us to "El Mirador," which is where you can look out on a crater lake in the middle of an old volcano. We walked around town and bought some presents for some people...the area is famous for its handmade pottery and pretty things. We stopped in to one artist's studio, and his wife showed us these beautiful plates she was painting. They use large handmade platters that have been whitewashed (or something), and her husband draws these picasso-esque people, and cats, and fish, and guitars, and then she and her son fill them in with beautiful bright colors. We had already spent all of our money by the time we got there, but -DAD- I got her email address, because I think you'd love the pieces.
We got back in town to make dinner and learn that water had been shut off for the day in the whole entire city for some reason, so we're happy we were out having lots of fun. Tomorrow the plan is to go to Lake Apoyo, another beautiful spot where we can swim and hike, and then on Saturday we're headed back in to Costa Rica!
The album is available here: http://picasaweb.google.com/margaretbyrne2
Today we took a bus trip to the town of Catarina, which was beautiful, cute, and great. One of our best days so far, I'd say. A little moto-taxi took us to "El Mirador," which is where you can look out on a crater lake in the middle of an old volcano. We walked around town and bought some presents for some people...the area is famous for its handmade pottery and pretty things. We stopped in to one artist's studio, and his wife showed us these beautiful plates she was painting. They use large handmade platters that have been whitewashed (or something), and her husband draws these picasso-esque people, and cats, and fish, and guitars, and then she and her son fill them in with beautiful bright colors. We had already spent all of our money by the time we got there, but -DAD- I got her email address, because I think you'd love the pieces.
We got back in town to make dinner and learn that water had been shut off for the day in the whole entire city for some reason, so we're happy we were out having lots of fun. Tomorrow the plan is to go to Lake Apoyo, another beautiful spot where we can swim and hike, and then on Saturday we're headed back in to Costa Rica!
Wednesday, January 21, 2009
Ohhh-metepe to Granada
Hello to all! Gwen and I just finished eating dinner, and are now working on a rum and coke, which seemed like the perfect time to also work on our blog. We were at the beach in San Juan del Sur until Sunday the 18th. The town was less touristy and more surfer-y than anywhere we'd been before. The beach wasn't crowded, and sometimes suffered from windstorms that covered everyone with sand, but the water was great, and the ocean was gorgeous. If you can imagine an open crescent, with cliffs on the very edges, San Juan del Sur was in the middle of the curve...so our view from the beach included mountains, cliffs, and ocean. One day, we walked along the bottom edge of the cliff to see what lay on the other side. We found small tide pools, local fishermen, and a lot of direct sunlight and crazy wind.
One night, we went out to a bar that had an open mic night, so we ate our dinners and had some beers to the sounds of locals singing Johnny Cash songs. The town was really nice to walk around, and we spent most of our time walking and hanging out at the beach!
Early Sunday morning, we boarded a bus that took us to the ferry to Ometepe Island. (Remember, if you will, the excitement surrounding this Island in my last post...) The ferry ride was beautiful. We could see both volcanoes grow bigger and bigger in the distance. Then we landed on the island, and things quickly went downhill. Long story short: An extremely hot day coupled with a series of less-than-helpful encounters (one of which was with someone who seemed to spit/drool uncontrollably), and an excess of donkey shit (and donkeys) everywhere we went (including the "beach") led our first (and last) night in Ometepe. Before we ate dinner, we were discussing what to do the next day- the island apparently has cool petroglyphs and nicer beaches Even after eating a dinner that looked like barf and finding lizards and bugs in our room and bed, we were prepared to wake up in the morning with improved attitudes. At some point between 2 and 3am, we both surpassed our tolerance for the creepy and crawly and watched movies on HBO until 6 in the morning, when we finally got on a ferry.
These are probably very common experiences for lots of people, and we've heard from other travelers that they had a great time in Ometepe, and under different circumstances I'm sure we would have had a very different experience there.
So- Monday morning we headed to Granada, which is a beautiful colonial city in Nicaragua. We arrived early enough in the day to check out a number of hostels before deciding on the Bearded Monkey, which offered us a one-of-a kind loft room that was accessible only by a ladder. Our first day there, we ate a huge and delicious breakfast and walked around the city for a few hours. Gwen says that the city feels somewhat like a European city, similar architecture and layout. It's the oldest colonial city in all of Central America. In contrast to our experience in Ometepe this place is wonderful, plenty to do and see, and it has a great feel to it. The streets are cobblestone in some places and there is an attention to detail that I haven't seen in many other places, sidewalks that are tiled and brilliant colors on buildings. There is also a lot of trash....everywhere. It feels like you can either notice the trash, or notice how pretty everything is, but the two exist in tandem all over the city. Similarly, you can admire beautiful art being sold in the marketplace and be wowed by child street performers dancing for money in the evening, or notice how many children are unsupervised and asking you for food/money. It feels unfair to say "I can't afford that" or "no I don't have any more money" when someone tells you how much a piece of art costs or asks you for money so they can eat, but it also feels like you could spend your whole day walking around giving out money to everyone who asks and still not solve any problems. Last night a guy asked us for money so he could buy milk for his kids. We didn't have much money on us and had given to several people throughout the day...we watched him ask other people for money with the same story, then we watched him go across the street and buy himself an ice cream. At first we were both a little surprised...one of us, more than the other, had been really worried about him and concerned that his children would go hungry if we didn't give him what would have amounted to about 50 cents. That interaction made me aware of the fact that he, just like everyone else, has the right to spend his money on anything he wants to spend it on, and that this man's need for money is a symptom of a larger problem that has much more to do with the country's history and government- and those are problems that we as outsiders don't understand and can't fix.
After spending one night in Monkey hostel, we found a great, beautiful, clean, awesome hotel that lets us use their kitchen and charges $14 a night. It's on a beautiful street that has reduced street traffic, and every so often we hear a horse and buggy go clop-clopping by. As we walk out on the street, we can see this bright yellow church that abuts the town square, where there are lots of people selling handmade crafts and food. We love it!
This afternoon we went on a quest to find a swimming pool. We read in a guide book that the city had a public pool, but when we walked there and asked, we got jumbled directions from a number of people that led us to a hotel that had a pool with a $9 entrance fee. No thanks. Genius gringas that we are, we walked in to another hotel that was rumored to have a pool, and found the cement pit that once held water, but the hotel was under construction and we therefore didn't get to go swimming today. But we did get to have a cocktail, update our blog, and think of all of you. Tomorrow we're going to explore the nearby town of Catarina, which has an artist's market and beautiful lake, and is supposed to be smaller and cleaner than Granada. We have some beautiful pictures to show you of the town, and of a crazy sunset in San Juan del Sur, but you all already know how inept we are at this photo-posting thing.
And now, a few shout-outs:
Happy Belated Birthday to Jesse, Norma, and Noah!!
Sending lots of warm thoughts your way,
Gwen and Margaret
One night, we went out to a bar that had an open mic night, so we ate our dinners and had some beers to the sounds of locals singing Johnny Cash songs. The town was really nice to walk around, and we spent most of our time walking and hanging out at the beach!
Early Sunday morning, we boarded a bus that took us to the ferry to Ometepe Island. (Remember, if you will, the excitement surrounding this Island in my last post...) The ferry ride was beautiful. We could see both volcanoes grow bigger and bigger in the distance. Then we landed on the island, and things quickly went downhill. Long story short: An extremely hot day coupled with a series of less-than-helpful encounters (one of which was with someone who seemed to spit/drool uncontrollably), and an excess of donkey shit (and donkeys) everywhere we went (including the "beach") led our first (and last) night in Ometepe. Before we ate dinner, we were discussing what to do the next day- the island apparently has cool petroglyphs and nicer beaches Even after eating a dinner that looked like barf and finding lizards and bugs in our room and bed, we were prepared to wake up in the morning with improved attitudes. At some point between 2 and 3am, we both surpassed our tolerance for the creepy and crawly and watched movies on HBO until 6 in the morning, when we finally got on a ferry.
These are probably very common experiences for lots of people, and we've heard from other travelers that they had a great time in Ometepe, and under different circumstances I'm sure we would have had a very different experience there.
So- Monday morning we headed to Granada, which is a beautiful colonial city in Nicaragua. We arrived early enough in the day to check out a number of hostels before deciding on the Bearded Monkey, which offered us a one-of-a kind loft room that was accessible only by a ladder. Our first day there, we ate a huge and delicious breakfast and walked around the city for a few hours. Gwen says that the city feels somewhat like a European city, similar architecture and layout. It's the oldest colonial city in all of Central America. In contrast to our experience in Ometepe this place is wonderful, plenty to do and see, and it has a great feel to it. The streets are cobblestone in some places and there is an attention to detail that I haven't seen in many other places, sidewalks that are tiled and brilliant colors on buildings. There is also a lot of trash....everywhere. It feels like you can either notice the trash, or notice how pretty everything is, but the two exist in tandem all over the city. Similarly, you can admire beautiful art being sold in the marketplace and be wowed by child street performers dancing for money in the evening, or notice how many children are unsupervised and asking you for food/money. It feels unfair to say "I can't afford that" or "no I don't have any more money" when someone tells you how much a piece of art costs or asks you for money so they can eat, but it also feels like you could spend your whole day walking around giving out money to everyone who asks and still not solve any problems. Last night a guy asked us for money so he could buy milk for his kids. We didn't have much money on us and had given to several people throughout the day...we watched him ask other people for money with the same story, then we watched him go across the street and buy himself an ice cream. At first we were both a little surprised...one of us, more than the other, had been really worried about him and concerned that his children would go hungry if we didn't give him what would have amounted to about 50 cents. That interaction made me aware of the fact that he, just like everyone else, has the right to spend his money on anything he wants to spend it on, and that this man's need for money is a symptom of a larger problem that has much more to do with the country's history and government- and those are problems that we as outsiders don't understand and can't fix.
After spending one night in Monkey hostel, we found a great, beautiful, clean, awesome hotel that lets us use their kitchen and charges $14 a night. It's on a beautiful street that has reduced street traffic, and every so often we hear a horse and buggy go clop-clopping by. As we walk out on the street, we can see this bright yellow church that abuts the town square, where there are lots of people selling handmade crafts and food. We love it!
This afternoon we went on a quest to find a swimming pool. We read in a guide book that the city had a public pool, but when we walked there and asked, we got jumbled directions from a number of people that led us to a hotel that had a pool with a $9 entrance fee. No thanks. Genius gringas that we are, we walked in to another hotel that was rumored to have a pool, and found the cement pit that once held water, but the hotel was under construction and we therefore didn't get to go swimming today. But we did get to have a cocktail, update our blog, and think of all of you. Tomorrow we're going to explore the nearby town of Catarina, which has an artist's market and beautiful lake, and is supposed to be smaller and cleaner than Granada. We have some beautiful pictures to show you of the town, and of a crazy sunset in San Juan del Sur, but you all already know how inept we are at this photo-posting thing.
And now, a few shout-outs:
Happy Belated Birthday to Jesse, Norma, and Noah!!
Sending lots of warm thoughts your way,
Gwen and Margaret
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